Short description
Let's clear one thing up: surfing is not just a sport. Sure, it's a physical activity and the competitive and associated commercial aspects are multimillion-dollar global industries, but surfing is so much more than that.
Long description
Let's clear one thing up: surfing is not just a sport. Sure, it's a physical activity and the competitive and associated commercial aspects are multimillion-dollar global industries, but surfing is so much more than that. For one, it is practised mostly by recreational amateurs who can do it when and where they want, waves permitting. It is not like tennis, cricket, or most other sporting codes, bound by little white lines and lots of rules; sports that you are not able to play without some form of structure and co-competitors. In order to better understand what a magnificent gift riding waves is, it is necessary to learn the sport's history and how the peculiar quirks of Mother Nature give us the privilege to surf. Without them, your approach to the sport will be as one-dimensional as learning how to swing a bat or kick a ball. This title is written with the all-encompassing aim of not only giving you practical advice, but also instilling in you a sense of awe and appreciation of the fragility of this natural sport.